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  • Matassa Blanc 2004

    Here are the notes from my cellar book on Matassa blanc 2004 which I purchased on release. I'd be interested to know if anybody else has actually enjoyed this wine since it was lauded by the critics when released, or if anybody has shared my experience? One entry on Cellartracker in November 2006 seems to mirror my thoughts.

    Very oaky in 12/05. Try this again in 2007 or so. In 02/07, still very mute indeed, but some opening up after 3 hours or so. Given great reviews from Neal Martin (22/25) and Jamie Goode (who points out it cannot be oak, but says it has a reductive character), perhaps this just needs a few years. Try again in late 2008 or early 2009. 10/09: oaky/burnt matches taste is less, but everything else is less too. This is just not interesting like le soula. It seems like it might be on downward path, without ever hitting its stride. 04/11 - opened one for cooking and decided it was so rank it should just go down sink.

    PS - I first posted on this a few years ago here:

  • #2
    Re: Matassa Blanc 2004

    I was judging at the IWC competition here in London over the last 2 weeks, where Sam Harrop MW was one of the co-chairs and the man behind Matassa with Tom Lubbe. It is certainly a very "individual" taste that might not be to everyone, although I see that David S. awarded similar scores to mine.
    Your post brings up the issue of natural winemaking and its effects on age. I might see if I can get some samples to taste (perhaps with Jamie!) and let you know my opinion.
    B rgds


    • #3
      Re: Matassa Blanc 2004

      Thanks for replying, Neal. I will be fascinated to hear the results if you do manage to taste some older samples. I can see that in its younger days, with plenty of air, this wine might have seemed to have some promise, on the basis that the strong reduction might diminish with time. However, on the basis of my bottles, I don't think there is much room for doubt or even taster differences that the 2004 has not fulfilled its promise.

      If you like, I can easily bring one or more of my remaining bottles of the 2004 down to central london. It will be no sacrifice at all for me to hand it/them over!


      • #4
        Re: Matassa Blanc 2004

        Just to clarify, I awarded similar scores to the wines from vintage 2005 on. I have not tasted the 2004. Given the extreme style of Tom Lubbe's wines and their low sulfur they definitely are not for everybody and their evolution might well be idiosyncratic. There is so much to taste there and Tom is such a fascination interlocutor that I have repeatedly gotten into a pinch for time, and I really need to taste more older vintages if he has and can open them. There have also been some changes in regimen in recent years, so that a wine tasting prominently of oak is no longer a possibility.

        Anyway, I am making Tom aware of this thread and we'll see whether he can supply any details about his 2004 Matassa blanc and its recent evolution.


        • #5
          Re: Matassa Blanc 2004

          David, thanks also for your response. I really appreciate it. I look forward to hearing any further thoughts, especially if Tom responds or anybody else has tasted these wines with a bit of age.

          As to oak, Jamie Goode suggested in the earlier thread that I was probably mistaking reduction for oak and I thought he may well have been right about that. I'd certainly be interested to hear what the actual wood regimen was for the 2004. I noted in the previous thread that the label stated "juice ... was aged in the same used Burgundy pieces and a new 500 litre demi-muid."


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